Georgia Firearm Forums - Georgia Packing banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
69,784 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Value is a difficult thing to determine sometimes.

2005 GMC Yukon, 4.8 liter engine, Premium Smooth Ride suspension, cloth seats, triple zone ac (ice cold) 320,000 miles.

Kelley Blue Book says: $593-$1962 for a trade in and $3761 for a private party sale.

I used "Good" condition, rather than "Very Good" or "Excellent," mainly to reflect some issues that might be expected on a 12 year old, 320,000 mile vehicle.

This truck has had a valve tick for 7 or 8 years. I was going to replace the lifters 7 or 8 years ago when it first started, but then I learned that the lifters are taller than the old Chevy flat tappet design, which would require removing the heads. This simple repair now looked like a very major repair that I was not in the mood to tackle in my driveway while I needed the truck to drive every day. A little research showed lots of people just ignore this and keep driving. So that is what I did. Almost a decade later (and over 100,000 miles later) and so far, so good.

Everything I have replaced on the car (spark plugs, pads, rotors, even the tires) are factory OEM original parts.

Truck runs well, is very comfortable, with a smooth ride. GM was not kidding with that Premium Smooth Ride option, and when I replaced the shocks the parts were over $1000. I tried generic cheaper shocks for a while, which fit, but the ride was not even remotely similar, so I went back to factory original parts, as I have with every other maintenance item or repair on this truck.

The oil was changed every three thousand miles, and, if changed religiously at 3,000 miles, the oil dip stick shows no oil consumption. When I experimented with going up to 5,000 miles, the dip stick showed some oil consumption after the 3,000 and up to the 5,000 (I was not willing to experiment beyond that and went back to 3,000 mile oil and filter changes). I firmly believe the 3,000 mile oil change interval is why this engine is still in such good shape.

It has a dent in the rear quarter where I backed and jackknifed a trailer several years back. I would not claim it is not noticeable, but those of you who have seen my "Mr. Stone, have you ever been to jail before?" Youtube video know it is certainly not apparent at all angles. I did not think it was worth the cost of repairing.

Typical issues. The cassette player no longer works, although it will play a cassette adapter (which I used to feed audio like Satellite radio, because it sounds better than wireless), the CD player no workie (too many books on CD), and some of the speakers are shot.

The rear passenger side power window does not roll down.

The driver side seat has one of the 10 or so power adjustment positions stuck (the height of the butt area). It fit me, so I did not want to buy the new seat motor and seat just to repair this one minor issue.

It has a locking rear differential, which means I never hesitate to drive it on snow and ice. It does better than most vehicles' all wheel or four wheel drive (because most of those do NOT have locking differentials). For those who do not know what this means, if the computer senses slip, there is a growling noise, and the computer locks the two rear tires together, no slippage. This means no tight turns until the computer unlocks it, but you can drive through almost any slippery conditions. I have literally driven uphill on a sheet of ice after witnessing four wheel drives slide down. The drivers were out pushing their vehicles on the ice, and they stepped out waving me off. I am sure they thought they were doing me a favor. I angrily waved them aside through the windshield while yelling, "Get out of the way!" They moved to the sidewalk and glared at me as I slowly drove past them up the sheet of ice with no issues.

Plenty of tread on tires (OEM, not cheap ass generic replacement tires). Plenty left on brake pads. The rotors were replaced with OEM originals at about a quarter million miles.

Spark plugs are the 100,000 mile kind (again, OEM for an LS engine) and have about 30,000 miles left on them before scheduled replacement.

Never used for towing anything but a landscaping trailer.

Almost ALL miles were highway commuting miles for many years from the country to Atlanta and vacation driving with the family, so high speed driving, long distances, not harsh stop and go and short distances.

So, thoughts?

Is the value KB assigns (roughly $4k) appropriate?

I am asking because I have been considering selling it. I do not drive it much anymore. I have hesitated to sell it mainly because its value to me is probably higher than the perceived value to strangers who see an old truck with a bajillion miles on it and have no idea how it has been looked after or cared for. Frankly, I would not buy somebody's old vehicle with over 300,000 miles. I would figure the vehicle had on foot in the grave, and I know most people do not even check their oil, much less maintain their cars, much less always use factory replacement parts. I would figure I was buying a problem that would happen very soon after buying.

So, shoot! You are not on the hook. It is not technically for sale. You are not offering to buy it. What is your assessment of the value of this old truck if I posted it on Craigslist or some other venue for selling?
 

·
Custom User Title
Joined
·
1,663 Posts
From my Craigslist experience buying and selling cars, 320k is a lot of miles to the typical user perusing the classifieds. I'd list at 3500 making note to call out that it under the KBB value and feel lucky if I got an offer for 3k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
From my Craigslist experience buying and selling cars, 320k is a lot of miles to the typical user perusing the classifieds. I'd list at 3500 making note to call out that it under the KBB value and feel lucky if I got an offer for 3k.
This is probably a fair estimate. Given the mileage, if I were in the market & saw this advertised for sale from an unknown seller, personally I would not really consider a $4K for a truck with 320,000 miles. I would not have that same hesitation to buy a truck with a bajillion miles from MP. I also know that it can live with that upper end tap for a very long time. But if I bought it and took it to a shop, most shops would not touch it to do a camshaft & lifters with that mileage. They would give me an estimate of $6500-$7000 for a new engine.
 

·
Lawyer and Gun Activist
Joined
·
28,584 Posts
How are the brake lights?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,027 Posts
A GM with over 300,000 mi ? Who would buy it ? Customers will be scarce and scary.

Donate it for the tax break, even though the IRS now requires more honesty in the valuation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
I would say your best bet would be to research what similar vehicles are going for in your general area more than basing your price on KBB. I've seen higher end luxury vehicles with many fewer miles go for a similar price or less. If you listed it for 3500, you could probably expect people to be making offers more in the 2500 range.
 

·
Token Liberal Hippie
Joined
·
13,680 Posts
Keep it and give it to the kid when he starts driving. It's a tank, runs well, safe, plus plenty of room in the back for, well, what kids do...

Also teach him some responsibility on maintenance and stuff
 

·
Ninjaneering Computers
Joined
·
2,661 Posts
Keep it and give it to the kid when he starts driving. It's a tank, runs well, safe, plus plenty of room in the back for, well, what kids do...

Also teach him some responsibility on maintenance and stuff
This. My dad has taught me more than I can remember over the years, but some of the most useful stuff he taught me was how to maintain my own vehicles. From oil changes to brakes to replacing transfer cases and rebuilding the AC system. Very valuable experience and knowledge that I wouldn't trade for anything.

And those kinds of mechanical problem-solving skills translate into other areas of life as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,663 Posts
Spend the 50 bucks to list on Autotrader, or the truck equivalent. Post the maximum photos you pay for, 7 I think. Start at $3500. If no response, lower price. Simple economics, lower price until sold. If it sells real fast, you didn't ask enough. Or just right. I do not work for Autotrader or, heck, I'm out of work right now. How about 2 pairs of eclipse glasses?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
69,784 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Spend the 50 bucks to list on Autotrader, or the truck equivalent. Post the maximum photos you pay for, 7 I think. Start at $3500. If no response, lower price. Simple economics, lower price until sold. If it sells real fast, you didn't ask enough. Or just right. I do not work for Autotrader or, heck, I'm out of work right now. How about 2 pairs of eclipse glasses?
:lol: Yeah, I now HOW to sell it. I am just trying to figure out if it is worth trying to do so, given the mileage and that nobody looking at the ad knows me or how I maintain my vehicles.
 

·
Like a Boss
Joined
·
3,034 Posts
Obviously the market value of the truck is whatever you can get somebody to pay for it. If you want to know the answer to that, put an ad on Craigslist and see what happens. Anything is better than continuing to register, insure, and maintain a vehicle you don't use, right?

I'd guess someone would snap it up reasonably quickly around $2500 if you wanted it gone. If you don't care if/when it sells, list it at $3500, include a picture of your meticulous maintenance records, and be prepared to wait a while for exactly the right buyer. I don't see any evidence based on online sales listings and actual eBay sales that you'd get $4k for it, but you never know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,458 Posts

·
GPDO Commonlaw Spouse
Joined
·
5,514 Posts
What color is it, and what trim package is it? Does it have 3rd row seating? Re: price, I'd go with what the rest of the folks here are saying. Start it at $3500 and see if you have any takers, drop the price by $250 every week or two until its gone or you hit a price where its more worthwhile to just hang on to it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
69,784 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What color is it, and what trim package is it? Does it have 3rd row seating? Re: price, I'd go with what the rest of the folks here are saying. Start it at $3500 and see if you have any takers, drop the price by $250 every week or two until its gone or you hit a price where its more worthwhile to just hang on to it.
White, lowest base model, and I thought they all had third row seating (so yes).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,033 Posts
I would personally be of the mind set of keeping it and running it into the ground. Unless you just HAVE to use a large truck as a daily commuter (no real reason for this, is there?) then it could come in very handy for doing "truck" stuff when you need it. At this point, the liability insurance should be very, VERY cheap so carrying costs should be minimal. I wouldn't want the headache of trying to sell it, anyway. The last car I sold was an '06 Accord that had about 60K miles on it and looked like it had just came off the showroom floor. I priced it very reasonably, but every freaking idiot wanted a "deep discount" even though I had 10 people interesting within the first 30 minutes of me listing it...it was a HUGE pain in the arse.

My FIL has a Tahoe (actually 2) that both have well over 250K miles on them. He uses one on some lease land he has for hunting reasons, and the other one he uses to get around his mountain house "spread". I have asked if he was interested in selling the newer one (I would like to have an older truck for the purposes I listed above) but he has no intention of ever getting rid of them.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top