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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For Christmas my wife bought me some spring kits for for my Ruger BlackHawk and my Ruger GP100. Yesterday I decided to go ahead with the trigger job on the BlackHawk.

I received 2 spring kits for this gun.
1. 30oz trigger spring/17lb hammer spring
2, 40oz trigger spring/19lb hammer spring

I used the 30oz spring kit.



Complete disassembly instructions in the Ruger manual supplied with the gun.





I used a Dremel with a soft polishing wheel and jewelers ruse to polish the contact surfaces on the hammer and trigger to slick them up without changing the shape or removing metal. You can't tell from the pictures but you can still see the original factory tooling marks on all polished surfaces.



The trigger, hammer, pawl and transfer bar have to be put back in the frame at the same time. On a side note if you do this look at the right side edge of the transfer bar near the top. Mine had some signs of wear where it rubbed the frame. Polish this area as well to help smooth out more of the drag. Doesn't take much but helps more than you would think.



Reassembled and tested.



Trigger job complete. There is virtually no drag, creep or notable travel on the trigger before the hammer drops. Dry fire test the first time I touched the trigger the hammer dropped without me intending it to. Since this is one of the guns I use in my classes I hope it will help stress the importance of keeping your finger off the trigger until you are on target.
 

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I did that to my GP too. I don't recall what weight I ended up with, but had to go up in spring weight after I installed the lightest one because double action ignition was un reliable. You get get a bigger swing of the hammer in SA.

For the SBH, I ended up ruining a hammer because I took too much off and had to get another one. It was a very creepy trigger before.

Smith and wesson really has the trigger down on their revolvers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did that to my GP too. I don't recall what weight I ended up with, but had to go up in spring weight after I installed the lightest one because double action ignition was un reliable. You get get a bigger swing of the hammer in SA.

For the SBH, I ended up ruining a hammer because I took too much off and had to get another one. It was a very creepy trigger before.

Smith and wesson really has the trigger down on their revolvers.
I have a good set of smith files but didn't want to use them because of the risk of removing material. Using the Dremel with the buffing whell and ruse worked great. Next in store for this one is a free spin pawl and some lock up and timing tuning. There is still a slight travel on the hammer after the cylinder locks up. If I can get the hammer timed exactly right everything should lock up at the same time.

I'm going to break down the GP100 tomorrow and see what kind of results I can get out of it. I'll take them both to the range Monday or Tuesday for live fire testing. I have 9, 10 and 12 pound hammer springs and 8 and 10 pound latch springs. I will probably go with the 8lb latch spring and the 12lb hammer spring. This should reduce the double action pull quite a bit and the single action pull to around 2 pounds or maybe a little less.
 
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