You're gonna be good to go after you read both up and down, left and right, forwards and backwards. You will have a good grasp of what the tools are, what materials are needed, and the dangers involved. This is not something to go into half-stupid. It's also not that complicated either. You're basically doing what has been done for hundreds of years, just in the modern version.... fill with powder, top with projectile, have a method of igniting the powder in the chamber. (of course, its more technical than that.) But the gist is what's important.coopertrades said:Thanks for the replies guys. Funny you should mention the Lyman manual. I have it and the latest version of the ABCs of Reloading already on order from Amazon. I appreciate the offers to help thus far and will PM you guys directly.
FTFY :righton:JiG said:It's awesome, it's not rocket science. 4 components, get em right and you'll be happier than a [s:3br8bdzv]puppy with two peters[/s:3br8bdzv]Happier'n a four peckered puppybecause your stuff is better than over the counter stuff.
Question I have for you though, have you found reloading to be that much cheaper than buying new? I have also thought about getting into reloading, but for me, it is a lack of time to do the reloading. Also, would you mind sharing what you have in cost per round, not including the equipment.galvatron said:My average range trips were getting a bit expensive at 300-500+rds per gun, so I started relaoding about 6-9 months ago. Don't misunderstand me here but, it's not all that hard. There's no real voodoo or dark arts involved, until you reach a level way beyond basic reloading.
I went full out with a progressive press and all the needed support equipment and never looked at it as anything other than an investment.
Tons of info http://www.thehighroad.org/forumdisplay.php?f=15
Thanks for the info!galvatron said:It does work out to be cheaper to reload. I can reload 45 for almost half of retail, 9mm is creeping higher in the stores as well 10.47 for 50 locally. .45acp works out to about 7.50 per 50, 9mm is about 6.75. The price for both could be lowered if you really hunted down the absolute lowest prices for components. Or if you and some friends buy in much larger bulk quantities.
Most of the HAZMAT fees can be skipped buy buying samller amounts locally, as in 8# of powder and 1-2k of primers. The dollar or two more your local shop may charge is still cheaper than then additional shipping, plus it supports your local shop :righton: . Beleive it or not most of the local guys, are within 3 dollars a pound when it comes to powder and the same for primers compared to online sources or each other.
Bullet choices can add significant increases to your cost, so look around for who has what you want. Again most shops are really close when it comes to prices, this is where some of the online guys blow the locals out of the water though.
I hear you on the lack of time. I'm currently working 6-7 days, 60hrs plus. Any spare time I have is spent with the wife, dogs etc. Haven't been shooting in 2 months. I do manage to find a few minutes a day to perform some reloading operation. I wont drop powder without at least half an hour to work. You can deprime and size cases at any time, starting and stopping as needed. 15 minutes is a lot of deprimed/sized cases. Brass can be tumbled without supervision.
simple load cost calculator
http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp
Everyone first interested in reloading is concerned about saving money. Yes, you will, no you won't. You'll still spend the same, but you will have more rounds of ammo in the end.YZ#58 said:Question I have for you though, have you found reloading to be that much cheaper than buying new? I have also thought about getting into reloading, but for me, it is a lack of time to do the reloading. Also, would you mind sharing what you have in cost per round, not including the equipment.galvatron said:My average range trips were getting a bit expensive at 300-500+rds per gun, so I started relaoding about 6-9 months ago. Don't misunderstand me here but, it's not all that hard. There's no real voodoo or dark arts involved, until you reach a level way beyond basic reloading.
I went full out with a progressive press and all the needed support equipment and never looked at it as anything other than an investment.
Tons of info http://www.thehighroad.org/forumdisplay.php?f=15
I have just gotten a 12 guage Stoeger O/U, so kind of interested about reloading that as well.
Thanks
Uh, that is a big "NO!" Do not make substitutions! Especially as a beginner!zetor said:.....The only thing not to be taken too seriously in the reloading manuals is brand recommendations. All manuals provide good basic info and data but push "THEIR" products. .....
I wasn't talking about components match. I'm talking about equipment ie scales, powder measures, dies, etc. I figured that was obvious.Match10 said:Uh, that is a big "NO!" Do not make substitutions! Especially as a beginner!zetor said:.....The only thing not to be taken too seriously in the reloading manuals is brand recommendations. All manuals provide good basic info and data but push "THEIR" products. .....
I have experienced many pressure variations with simply using different primers! If a certain loading uses a certain primer, do not substitute without working up that load from the mid-range. Pressures can vary IMMENSELY from one primer brand to another, as well as one company's lot to lot!
Different manufacturers of brass can have drastically different internal volumes from head thicknesses and wall thicknesses. This can be the difference in just a little pressure, or compressing the powder and wildly increasing chamber pressures!
Further, you cannot simply change a bullet from brand to brand either, without making sure the bullet is of a similar constrution. Using lead loads with jacketed and vice versa, can be disasterous. Using a solid copper where a gilding metal jacketed lead can be as well. Using a steel core where a lead core is the load, is just a big scream "NOOooooo!" from my experience. Further, the diameter and thickness of the jacket... Contact surface and ogive can cause wild variations in pressures using the same data. The list goes on.
PLEASE, NEVER substitute components unless you really, really, REALLY know what you are doing and have the ability to recognize excess pressure!
No, it is not really obvious in your previous statements. Further, the choice of dies and methods (and equipment for) priming cases is important as well. However, the manuals do tout their sister company's bullets, brass, primers, etc. Perhaps that is not obvious to you? There are reasons to avoid certain diesets made by certain manufacturers. I avoid certain presses fro reasons of which I was taught.zetor said:I wasn't talking about components match. I'm talking about equipment ie scales, powder measures, dies, etc. I figured that was obvious......
Not quite true. There is an absolute benefit to learning from a teacher. Pitfalls and mistakes are not always evident. Caution cannot be taught without guidance. You have proven here that the written word cannot be relied upon, as you did not specify what you meant in your writings... ie: You implied substitutions were acceptable and never elaborated. In fact, I would go so far as to say there are very few reference sources on reloading that are completely accurate and whole in their commentary of reloading.zetor said:If you can read, you can handload..
I have been blessed with family who was very into the shooting sports. Some of my earliest memories are of my grandfather, a gunsmith, doing custom reloading for clients in the "Reloading Room", along with the smell of Hoppes #9. I learned at the knee of him, my uncles, and my father. I have been reloading myself for 40+ years. I have all their manuals, going back into the Speer #1, and Sierra #1.zetor said:170 manuals?
Are you serious? Why????.
Another generalization.... Were he to completely rely upon your written word on that above, he may go out and purchase non-carbide, steel dies for a pistol cartridge. There is a vast difference in many diesets available.zetor said:....with standard 7/8"-14 threads and virtually all BRAND dies will work...
