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Gun Cleaning Revisited

5K views 62 replies 35 participants last post by  Match10 
#1 ·
*UPDATED*

I know there has been some discussion about gun cleaning previously on this forum. I did a search and read a couple of threads, but they mostly discussed Break-Free CLP.

My collection mostly contains Hoppe's products I can find at Academy Sports or Wal-Mart, although I occasionally experiment with products others have recommended.
I have quite a collection of the following;
- No. 9 Solvent
- Lubricating Oil with Weatherguard
- Foaming Bore Cleaner
- MOLY Oil
- BoreSnakes for each Caliber

I clean after nearly every range session. The only time I don't clean immediately afterward is if I know I will be going to the range again within a few days (one week max).

My cleaning routine has basically been as follows;
- Field strip & wipe all parts down with a clean cloth. I usually use plain old white undershirts or, more recently, a box of plain white cotton rags from Lowe's (like painters use).
- Use a can of compressed air to "blow out" any dust and/or debris from all parts.
- Dip a brass/nylon brush in No. 9 and scrub the inside of the barrel thoroughly.
- Use No. 9 soaked patches to further scrub the barrel, followed by dry patches until they come out clean.
- Run a BoreSnake through the barrel a few times, this time applying a couple of drops of MOLY Oil.
- Use an old toothbrush dipped in No. 9 to clean anything I can get to.
- Use No. 9 soaked patches to wipe down all metal parts (including magazines). On the Glocks I usually wipe down the area near the end of the barrel where the crud builds up too. [I am thinking of switching to small sponges for this step.]
- Wipe off excess solvent with a clean cloth.
- Apply a very small amount of MOLY Oil where the slide moves along the frame & on any other moving parts.
- Reassemble and work the slide several times, including dry firing, to further distribute the lube.
- Wipe off excess lube with a clean cloth.

I just purchased the Foaming Bore Cleaner and have not used it yet. I probably have 3 bottles of the Lubricating Oil with Weatherguard but haven't used it yet either. I will likely only use the Foaming Bore Cleaner occasionally, after a long range session or maybe for once per year deep cleaning. I think I might start applying Lubricating Oil with Weatherguard after wiping down all surfaces with the No. 9 Solvent.

Now, here are my questions.
1. Does this sound like an adequate cleaning? I am not really comfortable disassembling my pistols any further at this time.
2. Should MOLY Oil or Lube be applied anywhere else?
3. Are there any of these products I should eliminate from the process? Are there any products I should add to the process?
4. I hear people saying they use Break-Free CLP for everything. I have also heard people say they use No. 9 for everything. What gives? Am I better of with different products for different uses or just using one product for everything? Which to choose?

FYI Hoppe's has a basic Guide to Gun Care.pdf available for viewing and/or downloading on their website. It has some good information, but is really just a marketing tool.
 
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#27 ·
Jmark said:
One thing I would stress is buy good rods. Not the crap they sell at Walmart. I finally took the plunge and bought a couple of Tipton Carbon Fiber cleaning rods and they have made cleaning so much easier. That and they should last a lifetime if taken care of.
The Tipton rods are great, a little pricey but much better than the cheap aluminum rods in the cleaning kits. They swivel on ball bearings and are really strong but flexible. They make a great one for pistols that is only about 14" long.
 
#28 ·
VOLGRAD said:
- Use a No. 9 soaked patch to wet the inside of the barrel.
- Run a BoreSnake through the barrel a few times.
- Use No. 9 soaked patches to thouroughly scrub the barrel, followed by dry patches until they come out clean.
- Run a BoreSnake through the barrel a few times, this time applying a couple of drops of MOLY Oil.
Now, here are my questions.
1. Does this sound like an adequate cleaning? I am not really comfortable disassembling my pistols any further at this time.
I really think you need to use the brass brushes and scrub the barrel. I either run a very wet patch with No. 9 through the barrel or let some foaming bore cleaner sit in there while I clean the frame and slide. THen I dunk my brush in No. 9 and brush it about 10-12 cycles. Then go back with a wet patch, then enough dry ones until they are clean. If you only do patches without brushing I don't think you will get everything out, especially out of the grooves. Try this, take a dirty barrel and clean it with just patches and then brush it (put white paper towels down in front of where the brush will exit the muzzle end of the barrel. Run the dipped brush through about 10-12 times (you should see black gunk on the towels). Then run a patch through it. I bet it comes out fairly black. This shows what you left in the barrel the first time. Also be sure to use brass jags to push the patches through and not slotted tips. This makes a big difference.

I tried the Eezox for the first time last night after I got home from the range. Seemed to be a little tacky as it was drying. Personally the jury is still out on it, I consider it more of a protectant than a real lube. I always put a little gun grease or quality oil (either usually in a syringe or a bottle with a needle tip) to lubricate the specific spots the manufacturer recommends. Like the slide grooves, barrel, pivots, etc. I like the grease on my carry weapons as it stays in place and it takes a very small amount. I have a syringe of Wilson Combat Ultima Lube. I have had it for about 6 months and have used about 1/6th of it (and I go to the range quite a bit).
 
#30 ·
Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

Sine Nomen said:
Anyone ever just toss it into an ultrasonic cleaner, wipe/airhose dry, lube, and assemble? Sure the cleaner will set you back a few hundred, but given the amount of time we can spend cleaning our guns, it may be worth it.
I haven't. But, I've read about using those mineral spirit bath things at auto shops for cosmoline removal. I'd like to see the look on their faces if I showed up with an AK. :lol:
 
#31 ·
Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

ptsmith24 said:
I haven't. But, I've read about using those mineral spirit bath things at auto shops for cosmoline removal. I'd like to see the look on their faces if I showed up with an AK. :lol:
It'd be just fine at our shop. I'm constantly bringing in odd stuff to clean or work on. Also, you can buy a 5-gallon bucket of parts-wash cleaner at Autozone for about $20-$40 I think. The only thing different most shops have is the stand with a light, recirculating pump, and a brush/hose.
 
#33 ·
Wow.. that is way to elaborate for me.

I have lots of guns and I always clean them the same way. From my Kimber to my Kel-Tec.

I use Breakfree. Yeah, it's CLP. Just make sure to shake it before using.

Diassemble firearm. Wipe down all parts. Apply Breakfree to brush and scrub everything. Wipe off. Lightly lube. Run patch through bore. Reassemble.

No problems so far.
 
#37 ·
Anyone tried Gunslick Graphite Lube? I picked up a tube with my recent ammo order from Cheaper Than Dirt.

I put it on my new 220 Carry (just on the slide contact points). I tried to use a very small amount but it was waaaayyy too much. It comes out black and is very messy if you aren't careful. It did feel pretty smooth though and had a nice small, but not needle, point on the tube.
 
#38 ·
Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

Sine Nomen said:
Anyone ever just toss it into an ultrasonic cleaner, wipe/airhose dry, lube, and assemble? Sure the cleaner will set you back a few hundred, but given the amount of time we can spend cleaning our guns, it may be worth it.
I've tried it with parts of my pistol and a generic cleaning solution. It works OK but you still have to hit the heavy areas with a brush or plastic pick (ie: the burnt-on residue on the feed ramp, etc.). I didn't want to drop all parts of the pistol in as I have no way to get all of the (water-based) cleaner out of the tiny enclosed spaces (firing pin assembly, etc).

I plan on ordering some gun-specific cleaner and lube sooner or later. The lube solution will displace the water-based cleaner. Clean it, rinse it, run it in the lube solution, let it dry.
 
#40 ·
+++1 on good rods! I've seen more than one buggered up muzzle thanks to a multi-piece cleaning rod.

I use Tipton one piece epoxy coated rods. Pricey, but worth it. However, I've also stopped cleaning rifles from the muzzle unless there's no other way to tackle the job. If I'm cleaning my Garand or Mini-14 I'll use a bore snake. They do a surprisingly good job and you don't have to worry about muzzle wear. If I do have to clean from the muzzle I make sure I use a muzzle guide.

Other bits 'n pieces that make cleaning less of a chore:

Pipe cleaners. Nothing beats a pipe cleaner for getting into the nooks and crannys and sopping up garbage. Make sure you get cleaners made to clean a pipe; many of the 'craft' pipe cleaners are actually made of synthetic fiber and don't absorb. You need nice, fluffy cotton to do the job.

Patches. The patches sold at WallyWorld (Outers) are merely OK. What you really need are patches that are 100% woven cotton. I use the patches made by an outfit called Southern Bloomers. I suspect these are cut up mill rejects - cotton t-shirts or other garments that didn't make it past inspection. They are great - cut accurately to size for varying calibers and soak up stuff like a champ.

Toothbrush. No, not the one you use before going to bed each night. Buy a few cheap stiff bristle toothbrushes and keep them handy for scrubbing small parts. Brownells and others sell purpose made brushes that are double headed - a normal size brush head on one end and a smaller and narrower head on the other end (designed to clean between the locking lugs on an M-16 chamber).

Bore brushes. Yes, for cleaning a bore. However I also keep a few .30 cal bronze brushes handy for scrubbing really stubborn carbon build-up on bolt faces, firing pins, etc. They are also great for cleaning threads and cleaning up small areas of surface rust. You don't have to pay a fortune for bore brushes. Brownells sells them pretty cheap in multi-packs.

Delivery systems. Brownells (see a pattern developing here?) sells a good array of small plastic bottles with different types of caps designed for storing and delivering lubrication. The needle oiler bottles already described in this thread are great for putting just the right amount of lube in just the right place (like deep in the bowels of an AR trigger assembly). Word of caution, though. ALL of these bottles will leak if not set upright.

Lots of folks go to WallyWorld and buy only what they need right now to get the job done. If, like me, you've got a lot of firearms and clean regularly it makes more sense to buy in bulk from a dealer like Midway or Brownells. Your up front costs are high, but you'll save a whole lot down the line.

And finally, don't view cleaning your guns as a chore. I get the same pleasure out of cleaning my guns as a car collector gets our of washing and detailing his Corvette. It's therapeutic.
 
#41 ·
On pistols we are over thinking things. Some of you see how I treat my Glocks, SIG's and my 1911 (and you all see they work fine). Here is how I clean them when I clean them:

Items needed:
TW25B (grease)
Several Q-Tips
Simple Green
Bore Snake (appropriate caliber)
Paper Towels (get a decent brand)

1. Clear and re-clear the weapon.
2. Re-clear the weapon
3. Field Strip the pistol
4. Saturate the part I am going to clean in Simple Green
5. Scrub vigorously with brush
6. Wipe clean with paper towel, using the brush tip to get the paper towel into crack and slide rails.
7. Spray the bore with simple green, run bore snake thru it vigorously repeatedly until clean. The way I do this is drop the weighted end thru the chamber and let it hang, place my foot on top of the weight holding it on the floor, take the looped end of the bore snake in the other hand , taking the slack out but not tight, grasp the barrel in the right hand and vigorously up and down the bore snake until the chamber and barrel are new nickel clean.
8. Apply a slight amount of TW25B to any spot that has signs of metal to metal wear.
9. Reassemble and function check.

Good to go for 2000 to 4000 more rounds.

The only difference is the Glocks, ( if I have been burying it, throwing it in fine sand or dirt) I usually disassemble the frame and wash it with hot soapy water in the sink. If I happen to disassemble the slide totally I will wash it in hot soapy water and dry it throughly.

All of that cost prohibitive gun cleaning stuff is made for you to buy, not necessarily clean your gun better. For example Gun Scrubber $9.00, Brake Cleaner $1.25, Hoppes $4.00 for 2oz., Simple Green $3.00 for 24 oz. and as usual hot water and dish detergent priceless :lol:
 
#50 ·
Not that I'm recommending it but, We used to use Coke or Dr. Pepper in our bores before an inspection followed by a light coat of CLP. I never failed an inspection, nor did any damage occur to my weapons. (M-16 and M1911) For some reason that my feeble brain can't comprehend it worked rather well in removing carbon build-up in the tiny groove where the barrel makes contact with the upper reciever. Seems to have removed carbon from everything it got on as well. I clean my weapons pretty much the same as Firearmz. Just be careful to watch the bristles on the boresnake. Replace the boresnake if the bristles become damaged or worn out.
 
#51 ·
Firearmz said:
All of that cost prohibitive gun cleaning stuff is made for you to buy, not necessarily clean your gun better. For example Gun Scrubber $9.00, Brake Cleaner $1.25, Hoppes $4.00 for 2oz., Simple Green $3.00 for 24 oz. and as usual hot water and dish detergent priceless :lol:
Wow, what store is that? I buy Gun Scrubber at Walmart for about $5 per can.
 
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