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On pistols we are over thinking things. Some of you see how I treat my Glocks, SIG's and my 1911 (and you all see they work fine). Here is how I clean them when I clean them:

Items needed:
TW25B (grease)
Several Q-Tips
Simple Green
Bore Snake (appropriate caliber)
Paper Towels (get a decent brand)

1. Clear and re-clear the weapon.
2. Re-clear the weapon
3. Field Strip the pistol
4. Saturate the part I am going to clean in Simple Green
5. Scrub vigorously with brush
6. Wipe clean with paper towel, using the brush tip to get the paper towel into crack and slide rails.
7. Spray the bore with simple green, run bore snake thru it vigorously repeatedly until clean. The way I do this is drop the weighted end thru the chamber and let it hang, place my foot on top of the weight holding it on the floor, take the looped end of the bore snake in the other hand , taking the slack out but not tight, grasp the barrel in the right hand and vigorously up and down the bore snake until the chamber and barrel are new nickel clean.
8. Apply a slight amount of TW25B to any spot that has signs of metal to metal wear.
9. Reassemble and function check.

Good to go for 2000 to 4000 more rounds.

The only difference is the Glocks, ( if I have been burying it, throwing it in fine sand or dirt) I usually disassemble the frame and wash it with hot soapy water in the sink. If I happen to disassemble the slide totally I will wash it in hot soapy water and dry it throughly.

All of that cost prohibitive gun cleaning stuff is made for you to buy, not necessarily clean your gun better. For example Gun Scrubber $9.00, Brake Cleaner $1.25, Hoppes $4.00 for 2oz., Simple Green $3.00 for 24 oz. and as usual hot water and dish detergent priceless :lol:
 

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Plus One on Simple Green

Dry mine with compressed air, starting fluid works well too, IIRC, the number one item in Hoppes no 9, is kero.
 

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I have but it will take the finish off.
 

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I keep it pretty basic, No. 10 Copper Cutter, copper or plastic bore brush, jags for patches, CLP for lubing and TW-25 for grease where needed. I do have things like bore snakes, but only use them at the range for the target rifles.
 

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simply green +1
especially works great for the hard to reach trigger of the Mark II & III pistols and all them little springs in my CZ
 

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Tactical Statistician
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Discussion Starter #48
After taking Ken's class this weekend my 220 is sort of smoke gray. I guess I might actually clean it. It is functioning perfectly, just dirty as :censored: .
 

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VOLGRAD said:
After taking Ken's class this weekend my 220 is sort of smoke gray. I guess I might actually clean it. It is functioning perfectly, just dirty as :censored: .
Don't forget the magazines! Even if your range is only half as dusty as ours, you'll still take out about a pound of dirt between the gun, mags, and holster.
 

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Not that I'm recommending it but, We used to use Coke or Dr. Pepper in our bores before an inspection followed by a light coat of CLP. I never failed an inspection, nor did any damage occur to my weapons. (M-16 and M1911) For some reason that my feeble brain can't comprehend it worked rather well in removing carbon build-up in the tiny groove where the barrel makes contact with the upper reciever. Seems to have removed carbon from everything it got on as well. I clean my weapons pretty much the same as Firearmz. Just be careful to watch the bristles on the boresnake. Replace the boresnake if the bristles become damaged or worn out.
 

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Firearmz said:
All of that cost prohibitive gun cleaning stuff is made for you to buy, not necessarily clean your gun better. For example Gun Scrubber $9.00, Brake Cleaner $1.25, Hoppes $4.00 for 2oz., Simple Green $3.00 for 24 oz. and as usual hot water and dish detergent priceless :lol:
Wow, what store is that? I buy Gun Scrubber at Walmart for about $5 per can.
 

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Shotgun Stock

I was cleaning a Mossberg 500ab in preparation for selling/trading it and wanted to do something extra for the stock when I noticed a bottle of Martin Guitar Oil on the shelf. I've used the stuff for years on my guitars and mandolin, but never thought to try it on a gun stock. I was very pleased with the results. Its non-sticky with no oily residue and gives a smooth, even finish to the wood. I used the same process I use for guitars. For the first pass, I sprayed a clean cloth amd wiped the stock down with the oil. Next, I sprayed the wood directly till it was covered, wiping off any overspray that got onto the any metal parts. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes, wiped off the excess, and repeated 3-4 times till the finish looked like I wanted it to. I did a final rub down and polish with a soft cloth and called it done. Has anyone else ever tried this?
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Re: Shotgun Stock

bp said:
Has anyone else ever tried this?
NO but it sounds like a great idea. Now, let's hear some music. I love an acoustic guitar and mandolin. This morning was bluegrass/gospel all the way to work.
 

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M249 said:
Bulldawg182 said:
Once again, you've read my mind. I also have never seen "CLP" in any of the gun stores I frequent although "Breakfree" is available everywhere. Are they one and the same?
Breakfree is CLP just like Motrin is Ibubrofen and I use it because it's what I'm used to using and it works. CLP was made so that GIs would have a easy, one-bottle solution to clean, lubricate, and protect their weapons, so I'd wager you can find more effective products that don't "do it all"--you'll just have more bottles than I do.
I'm a CLP head too. That, a cleaning rod, some patches and Q-Tips is all I use really.

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VOLGRAD said:
Does anyone do anything different for Stainless slides like on Sig TTs?
I like using Flitz polish on stainless parts. It'll take carbon fouling right off and a little goes a long way. It also helps prevent corrosion.
 

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Like Firearmz, I also use TW25B grease too. I also use Breakfree CLP and use a silicone cloth to wipe my Glocks down when finished.
 
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