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Atlanta Overwatch
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S&W 40 said:
Might not be needed every cleaning but after a few hundred or so rounds it won’t hurt.
Afew hundred or so rounds? That's an hour at range for some of us.
 

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Romans 10:13
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I also use a lot of Q-tips to clean my Glocks. They come in very handy when cleaning the firing pin channel and those really hard to reach places in the frame.
 

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Locations

Where to buy:
Claire------noxon

Breadfan63---------Tetra Grease, I've found everything else they make but not the grease.

Repeat Defender-------PLUS ONE on the Militec-1, people think you are BSing them when you tell them how militec says to apply it. Got mine at a show.
 

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Tetra Grease---

Thanks Claire, I'll try HD

Breadfan, lil' help on the Tetra Grease only, everybody sez they can order it I thought you found yours on the rack somewhere. I've found Tetra everything else, 1st heard of it on a Kahr forum, but can't find the topic.
 

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Jmark said:
One thing I would stress is buy good rods. Not the crap they sell at Walmart. I finally took the plunge and bought a couple of Tipton Carbon Fiber cleaning rods and they have made cleaning so much easier. That and they should last a lifetime if taken care of.
The Tipton rods are great, a little pricey but much better than the cheap aluminum rods in the cleaning kits. They swivel on ball bearings and are really strong but flexible. They make a great one for pistols that is only about 14" long.
 

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VOLGRAD said:
- Use a No. 9 soaked patch to wet the inside of the barrel.
- Run a BoreSnake through the barrel a few times.
- Use No. 9 soaked patches to thouroughly scrub the barrel, followed by dry patches until they come out clean.
- Run a BoreSnake through the barrel a few times, this time applying a couple of drops of MOLY Oil.
Now, here are my questions.
1. Does this sound like an adequate cleaning? I am not really comfortable disassembling my pistols any further at this time.
I really think you need to use the brass brushes and scrub the barrel. I either run a very wet patch with No. 9 through the barrel or let some foaming bore cleaner sit in there while I clean the frame and slide. THen I dunk my brush in No. 9 and brush it about 10-12 cycles. Then go back with a wet patch, then enough dry ones until they are clean. If you only do patches without brushing I don't think you will get everything out, especially out of the grooves. Try this, take a dirty barrel and clean it with just patches and then brush it (put white paper towels down in front of where the brush will exit the muzzle end of the barrel. Run the dipped brush through about 10-12 times (you should see black gunk on the towels). Then run a patch through it. I bet it comes out fairly black. This shows what you left in the barrel the first time. Also be sure to use brass jags to push the patches through and not slotted tips. This makes a big difference.

I tried the Eezox for the first time last night after I got home from the range. Seemed to be a little tacky as it was drying. Personally the jury is still out on it, I consider it more of a protectant than a real lube. I always put a little gun grease or quality oil (either usually in a syringe or a bottle with a needle tip) to lubricate the specific spots the manufacturer recommends. Like the slide grooves, barrel, pivots, etc. I like the grease on my carry weapons as it stays in place and it takes a very small amount. I have a syringe of Wilson Combat Ultima Lube. I have had it for about 6 months and have used about 1/6th of it (and I go to the range quite a bit).
 

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Ultrasonic Anyone?

Anyone ever just toss it into an ultrasonic cleaner, wipe/airhose dry, lube, and assemble? Sure the cleaner will set you back a few hundred, but given the amount of time we can spend cleaning our guns, it may be worth it.
 

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Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

Sine Nomen said:
Anyone ever just toss it into an ultrasonic cleaner, wipe/airhose dry, lube, and assemble? Sure the cleaner will set you back a few hundred, but given the amount of time we can spend cleaning our guns, it may be worth it.
I haven't. But, I've read about using those mineral spirit bath things at auto shops for cosmoline removal. I'd like to see the look on their faces if I showed up with an AK. :lol:
 

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Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

ptsmith24 said:
I haven't. But, I've read about using those mineral spirit bath things at auto shops for cosmoline removal. I'd like to see the look on their faces if I showed up with an AK. :lol:
It'd be just fine at our shop. I'm constantly bringing in odd stuff to clean or work on. Also, you can buy a 5-gallon bucket of parts-wash cleaner at Autozone for about $20-$40 I think. The only thing different most shops have is the stand with a light, recirculating pump, and a brush/hose.
 

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Wow.. that is way to elaborate for me.

I have lots of guns and I always clean them the same way. From my Kimber to my Kel-Tec.

I use Breakfree. Yeah, it's CLP. Just make sure to shake it before using.

Diassemble firearm. Wipe down all parts. Apply Breakfree to brush and scrub everything. Wipe off. Lightly lube. Run patch through bore. Reassemble.

No problems so far.
 

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Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

Sine Nomen said:
The only thing different most shops have is the stand with a light, recirculating pump, and a brush/hose.
:scared: :scared:

You are giving me flashbacks to the 6 years that I spent working for Safety Kleen.

:scared: :scared:
 

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Re: Locations

maggie said:
Where to buy:
Breadfan63---------Tetra Grease, I've found everything else they make but not the grease.
I think mine came from David's Gun Room on Buford Hwy. I've had it for quite some time.
 

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Tactical Statistician
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Discussion Starter #37
Anyone tried Gunslick Graphite Lube? I picked up a tube with my recent ammo order from Cheaper Than Dirt.

I put it on my new 220 Carry (just on the slide contact points). I tried to use a very small amount but it was waaaayyy too much. It comes out black and is very messy if you aren't careful. It did feel pretty smooth though and had a nice small, but not needle, point on the tube.
 

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Re: Ultrasonic Anyone?

Sine Nomen said:
Anyone ever just toss it into an ultrasonic cleaner, wipe/airhose dry, lube, and assemble? Sure the cleaner will set you back a few hundred, but given the amount of time we can spend cleaning our guns, it may be worth it.
I've tried it with parts of my pistol and a generic cleaning solution. It works OK but you still have to hit the heavy areas with a brush or plastic pick (ie: the burnt-on residue on the feed ramp, etc.). I didn't want to drop all parts of the pistol in as I have no way to get all of the (water-based) cleaner out of the tiny enclosed spaces (firing pin assembly, etc).

I plan on ordering some gun-specific cleaner and lube sooner or later. The lube solution will displace the water-based cleaner. Clean it, rinse it, run it in the lube solution, let it dry.
 

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BTW, the Tipton Carbon Fiber rods are on sale at Midway this month. Too bad I bought some last month. :banghead:
 

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+++1 on good rods! I've seen more than one buggered up muzzle thanks to a multi-piece cleaning rod.

I use Tipton one piece epoxy coated rods. Pricey, but worth it. However, I've also stopped cleaning rifles from the muzzle unless there's no other way to tackle the job. If I'm cleaning my Garand or Mini-14 I'll use a bore snake. They do a surprisingly good job and you don't have to worry about muzzle wear. If I do have to clean from the muzzle I make sure I use a muzzle guide.

Other bits 'n pieces that make cleaning less of a chore:

Pipe cleaners. Nothing beats a pipe cleaner for getting into the nooks and crannys and sopping up garbage. Make sure you get cleaners made to clean a pipe; many of the 'craft' pipe cleaners are actually made of synthetic fiber and don't absorb. You need nice, fluffy cotton to do the job.

Patches. The patches sold at WallyWorld (Outers) are merely OK. What you really need are patches that are 100% woven cotton. I use the patches made by an outfit called Southern Bloomers. I suspect these are cut up mill rejects - cotton t-shirts or other garments that didn't make it past inspection. They are great - cut accurately to size for varying calibers and soak up stuff like a champ.

Toothbrush. No, not the one you use before going to bed each night. Buy a few cheap stiff bristle toothbrushes and keep them handy for scrubbing small parts. Brownells and others sell purpose made brushes that are double headed - a normal size brush head on one end and a smaller and narrower head on the other end (designed to clean between the locking lugs on an M-16 chamber).

Bore brushes. Yes, for cleaning a bore. However I also keep a few .30 cal bronze brushes handy for scrubbing really stubborn carbon build-up on bolt faces, firing pins, etc. They are also great for cleaning threads and cleaning up small areas of surface rust. You don't have to pay a fortune for bore brushes. Brownells sells them pretty cheap in multi-packs.

Delivery systems. Brownells (see a pattern developing here?) sells a good array of small plastic bottles with different types of caps designed for storing and delivering lubrication. The needle oiler bottles already described in this thread are great for putting just the right amount of lube in just the right place (like deep in the bowels of an AR trigger assembly). Word of caution, though. ALL of these bottles will leak if not set upright.

Lots of folks go to WallyWorld and buy only what they need right now to get the job done. If, like me, you've got a lot of firearms and clean regularly it makes more sense to buy in bulk from a dealer like Midway or Brownells. Your up front costs are high, but you'll save a whole lot down the line.

And finally, don't view cleaning your guns as a chore. I get the same pleasure out of cleaning my guns as a car collector gets our of washing and detailing his Corvette. It's therapeutic.
 
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