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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I'm fairly new to cleaning handguns as I've only had mine for a few months. I have used CLP Break-Free for cleaning out the trigger mechanisms/springs under the slide and it seems to do a great job flushing out grit and powder. However, it leaves a really oily feel to it, especially because it penetrates all the areas where a pin or safety go through the pistol and then it ends up on the outside. I end up with this silicone/oily feel on the grips and trigger. Is this a normal thing to have happen?

I use Hoppes solvent for the barrel and usually wipe down the slide with it also. Afterwhich I normally put a drop of oil on each side of the slide before re-assembly.

I'd appreciate any pointers on semi-auto pistol cleaning.
 

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pro2am- CLP does that. It leaves an oily feel to everything. Just try to wipe it down best you can. We use it on everything to clean (in the Marines, not on personal guns). Even the bore. But, I would continue using Hoppe's on the bore. It's better than CLP on the bore in the regards of a cleaning agent.


It is also proven to be linked to cancer. So don't go drinking it. And WASH YOUR HANDS. Being a Machine Gunner in the Marines. I myself would be covered in it. All over hands and face. We wouldn't care a bit and would eat MRE's with it on our hands. Oh well...
 

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For those who don't know. CLP = Cleaner Lubricant and Protectant. However it's a multi use tool. It's not the best at cleaning, lubricating or protecting. It is just an all in one liquid. That's my personal opinion though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the reply. This stuff really works well, but I thought i was over using it, even when I don't think I'm spraying that much.

I put 201 rounds through the gun yesterday and after disassebly I held it upside down and sprayed CLP at the springs and the part under the slide, the thing just dripped black and gritty dirt.

It really does penetrate everything. I got a clean dry rag and successfully cleaned the outside to the point that it was actually dry, but it took awhile.
 

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There is no such thing as over using CLP. We dump that crap on by the gallons. During firing and after as a cleaning agent. The only negatives are that when we dump a crap ton on the machine guns it throws it back in your face/eyes. And after cleaning, it can cause the expericance you have had. But it's all good. Just wash your hands and face, if it gets on them.

Hopefully by the cancer causing coment didn't scare you away from using it. Pretty much everything that is corrosive enough to eat threw carbon causes cancer. Coca-cola even eat's threw carbon. Marines use it in there mortor tubes. The crap we put in out body's is rediculous these days. Oh well...
 

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I just picked up a bottle of BF-CLP and it is my new cleaning solution.

I decided it was time to clean out my mags and now they are nice and clean.

As for cleaning I always were gloves to avoid contact with the cleaning solution.

Normally I've used latex gloves, but they have a tendency to tear so I switched to Nitrilex glove. Big improvement.
 

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I've heard good things about non-chlorinated brake cleaner as a gun cleaner. I've got some in the garage, so I'll be giving it a try. I plan to blast out/scrub off the gunk with brake cleaner and then apply CLP.
 

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Yeah I remember good ol' CLP, still have wart's on both hands from that stuff. I just recently started using some of remmington's line of solvents and lube's and I'm pretty happy with the results.
Be careful with other solvents like PBlaster, and the like, good chance they can strip the blueing, or other finishes, off your weapon.

p.s With CLP make sure you don't use too much, we used to lightly (and I stress lightly) lube up the bolt carrier group, to prevent carbon sludge that you get under extended firing. The majority of weapon jams that I have experience stem from LCpl Shmuckateli spraying a half a bottle of CLP in the recievers. :roll:
 

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I haven't used it yet, but a buddy of mine swears by Kano Kroil. He says he's found nothing better to lift the fouling for easier removal. I May have to give that a try soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I swear by Kroil too, but only for disassembly of rusted automotive parts on my "other" hobby. The stuff is better than PB Blaster in my opinion. It's a great penetrant. I'm leary of using other chemicals that aren't specifically made for guns. It's hard to tell of the long term effects like gumming, stripping the finish, etc.
 

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I used CLP (Breakfree) in the Marines as well. I use it now... on everything. I clean my AK with it (clean as in once lol), my AR, my Kimber .45, etc... it's a good all in one product. Of course, I'm sure you could get 3 or more botique products that would perform each specific task marginally better... but is it worth it? To me, it's not.

For my semi-auto's, my cleaning procedure is as follows.

1) Field strip
2) Wipe off everything with a cloth. Run patches through barrel.
3) Put some CLP on the trusty toothbrush and briskly scrub the parts I wish to clean. Put some CLP on a bore/barrel brush to clean the barrel.
4) Wipe everything down again, this time I use some Q-tips to get out the gunk from harder to reach areas. I use toothpicks to clean a few of my guns, especially the .22's.
5) Apply some CLP where needed. Depends on the pistol. Usually a very light coat on the barrel and slide release. One drop where the barrel meets the slide. One on the disconnector. One on each slide rail. Maybe a drop under the hammer.
6) Reassemble and function check.

Maybe not the best procedure, but it's worked for me for years.

I would say to not over-lube. I wear glasses and there it's really annoying to leave the range with a good layer of CLP droplets on my specs.
 

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What is this "Cleaning" to which y'all refer? Is one supposed to clean his guns? :?
 
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