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انا باتمان
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am building my first AR.

So far very few problems...... well one. How the ^%#$ does one install the front takedown pin without shooting detente pins all over the room?

Second question. I bought a double star lpk, the single stage trigger seems a bit stiff. Do the reduced power springs cause things like light strikes?

Third question: I am installing an Adams Arms upper. Anyone with experience with these?
 

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GeePeeDoHolic
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So far very few problems...... well one. How the ^%#$ does one install the front takedown pin without shooting detente pins all over the room?
Someone at arfcom said he used a clevis pin from Home Depot, like this one and a punch to push through the hole. You'd then turn the clevis pin to hold the spring in, and follow it in with the takedown pin as you pull it out. The thread had linked to a $15 dollar tool, and his answer was don't spend that!

Seeing that purpose-built Wheeler tool for $5, I might just order that.

I have not yet built one; I'm still procrastinating.
 

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انا باتمان
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Someone at arfcom said he used a clevis pin from Home Depot, like this one and a punch to push through the hole. You'd then turn the clevis pin to hold the spring in, and follow it in with the takedown pin as you pull it out. The thread had linked to a $15 dollar tool, and his answer was don't spend that!

Seeing that purpose-built Wheeler tool for $5, I might just order that.

I have not yet built one; I'm still procrastinating.
so $5.29 at Midway
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/91...nt-and-roll-pin-installation-tool-ar-15-steel
$9.25 at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Pivot-Roll-Install-156243/dp/B00FSVWHHU
Anyone know if midway is decent on shipping?
 

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. . . and NOW is the time to stone or smooth trigger surfaces. Because once you get it all together, you won't want to undo it.
 

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انا باتمان
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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so i am building my first ar.

So far very few problems...... Well one. How the ^%#$ does one install the front takedown pin without shooting detente pins all over the room?
first one, i used a razor blade to hold the detente pin in while i installed the takedown. Then i got smart and got a tool to do it. The suggesting on the pin from hd is a good one.

second question. I bought a double star lpk, the single stage trigger seems a bit stiff. Do the reduced power springs cause things like light strikes? stock triggers suck. You can try the springs, but i would just deal with it until i had the money for an aftermarket trigger system.

third question: I am installing an adams arms upper. Anyone with experience with these?
no experience
12345
 

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I hope you have a vice to use.

For my first build I had to hold my assemblies with my feet as my hands did the work. Needless to say it added some build time.
 

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انا باتمان
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've hear Jard makes good triggers. They sell some fixed triggers, not sure what poundage I'd want. They also sell an adjustable trigger, but I have no idea how that would work given what I can see in the lower right now. Do they sell it with a variety of sears?
 

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. . . and NOW is the time to stone or smooth trigger surfaces. Because once you get it all together, you won't want to undo it.
And make damn sure not to alter any angles on any surfaces that make contact.
 

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NRA Instructor
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I use a brass punch the same size as the Pivot pin. Insert it from the left side, push the spring and detent as the punch comes in contact then slide the punch past. Use the Pivot pin to push the punch out with the slot facing forward then rotate the Pivot Pin until the detent engages. You're done.
 

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I use a brass punch the same size as the Pivot pin. Insert it from the left side, push the spring and detent as the punch comes in contact then slide the punch past. Use the Pivot pin to push the punch out with the slot facing forward then rotate the Pivot Pin until the detent engages. You're done.
I have done this, and it works well however I usually use a ball point pin in the same manner as it seems to be a perfect fit.
 

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No vice here (although they do help). I use a cheap punch from Home Depot (not brass, gunsmith grade, etc). It's not hard at all once you do it a couple of times.

The ALG ACT is currently my favorite trigger at $69 MSRP. Same pull weight of mil-spec, but extremely crisp and tight. They basically just use a higher quality steel and do all of the polishing and what not for you in a repeatable and predictable way without changing any geometry. I describe it as feeling like a sub 4lb trigger, but actually still pulling at the standard weight of 5.5lbs.

That said, there are a lot of quality triggers (and AR parts in general) out there nowadays. It's kind of hard to go wrong as long as you stick with a known brand.
 

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انا باتمان
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any special tricks on the buffer tube and stock assembly?
 

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NRA Instructor
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Any special tricks on the buffer tube and stock assembly?
Special tricks?

Installing the buffer tube for a COL put the castle nut on all the way to the end of the threads (note the notched end should be toward the rear of the tube), Slide the tail plate over the thread end with the tab in the slot on the tube. Insert the take down pin into the receiver then insert the take down detent pin in the rear of the receiver. Insert the detent spring in the rear of the receiver. Screw the buffer tube into the receiver being careful not to snag the detent spring for the take down pin. You will more than likely have to hold it depressed while screwing the buffer tube into the receiver to keep from damaging it. Just before the buffer tube gets to the hole for the buffer detent insert the the spring and the buffer dentent. Turn the buffer tube until just the tip of the buffer detent fits into the notch in the buffer tube. Make sure this pin moves freely and will not pop out. Press the tail plate up to the rear of the stock while being careful not to damage the take down pin detent spring. Tighten the Castle nut up to hold the tail plate in position. You want to make sure this is TIGHT. Pull down on the COL lever and slide the butt stock onto the buffer tube. Now you can insert the buffer spring and the buffer into the buffer tube.

I could have built a couple of lowers already....
 

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Man of Myth and Legend
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Glad to help! Took longer to type that than it takes to build the lower from the start.
#2, maybe.

#3. Probably.

#4. Yeah, easy.

But #1, not so much.

Nemo
 

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I have only built one. but all I really assembled was the lower. I used a kit from PSA. The upper was already assembled. I bought their EPT fire control group to get a better trigger. All they do is polish the parts & coat them with nickel. It made the trigger on mine feel much cleaner.
 
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