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Building engineering ?

2K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  a_springfield 
#1 ·
Is there anyone here that has knowledge about lvls in buildings. I am trying to see what size I need for a header for a building.
 
#4 ·
16' post to post one will have metal trusses 4' from one post and another one with truss centered. I am building a 40x45 shed and only want 4 posts on one side. The load will be 40' metal truss plus purlins and tim plus the occasional snow load. I have seen a 16" lvl used on a 23' span holding up a 25' stick built truss building, so I think it will be fine on the 16' spans.
 
#3 ·
Textile Flooring Brick Rectangle Gesture


I do all my structural engineering with Legos.
 
#9 ·
Most LVLs are 1.75'' thick. Without more specific information this is the starting point. I have never in over 50 years had any experience with an LVL that was only 1.5'' thick. Two glued and screwed are required to support common TJIs used in a floor structure. However in this case with the information available using steel (which is significantly heavier that a wood TJI) you need the extra LVL to carry the estimated (read wild guess) load.
 
#13 ·
The roof trusses are angle iron scissors on 12' center. I spoke to a guy building carports with the same style trusses and he uses double 12" lvl for a 24' span.
 
#16 ·
If you want real numbers instead of a wild guess then perhaps posting actual distances, loads, weights and everything sitting on the trusses such as flooring and roofing. Since you posted 12' center instead of 12'' center how much does the roofing weigh that will span 12' from one truss to the next? I have seen people use a single 4x4 for a 12' header. Works for a while but not forever. Also what size angle iron is it? What gauge steel is it? 1''X1'' is not as heavy as 4''X4''.
 
#10 ·
Do yourself a big favor, hire a structural engineer to do the calcs. You will be covered if anything ever happens and you will be paying for an expert opinion by a licensed professional. Not a bunch of guys on an internet forum that have a second cousin twice removed that used to be married to an engineer during the Korean war.
 
#12 ·
And you willing to let him rely on your calculations and instructions? They may be and likely are correct.

But his-- I understood what he said and did it as he said to do, but it still fell down killing 2 adults and 4 kids at the move in celebration might give you a headache or 2.

Getting a good structural engineer officially on it is a very good idea.

Nemo
 
#14 ·
I will also be adding in a header under the lvl to frame in garage doors so they will also be supported some
 
#15 ·
I think you need an engineering drawing. You call it a header but then you say it will have trusses. That’s no longer a header or header calculation, that’s a beam span question.

Or to make a gun forum metaphor out of your question, “What size clip for the shoulder thingy that goes up?” I’m steeped in confusion by what’s asked or implied.
 
#17 ·
The building is going to be 40x 48. Trusses on 12’ centers with 2x6 on edge for prulins. I am wanting to only have 4 posts on one side so I can have 3 doors 2 10’ and one 12’ wide and centered (the posts will be in the way). The other side I will use 5 posts with the truss straight on the post. The roof is galvalume metal.

The side that uses lvls will be posts on 16’ centers. One lvl will have a truss dead center 8’ from each post and the other 2 will have the truss sitting 4 feet from the post one way and 12 the other.
 
#19 ·
The building is going to be 40x 48. Trusses on 12' centers with 2x6 on edge for prulins. I am wanting to only have 4 posts on one side so I can have 3 doors 2 10' and one 12' wide and centered (the posts will be in the way). The other side I will use 5 posts with the truss straight on the post. The roof is galvalume metal.

The side that uses lvls will be posts on 16' centers. One lvl will have a truss dead center 8' from each post and the other 2 will have the truss sitting 4 feet from the post one way and 12 the other.
Offhand, you'll need to provide an engineer's letter for the truss system when you apply for the permit *anyway*, so I'd just select whichever licensed engineer has some grease in your county and have his office either review your plan and/or assist with it.

That might pay for itself anyway since they might suggest an easier/cheaper/more efficient means of doing whatever it is you want to do? Food for thought.

I'd just call up my county permitting office, get a list of licensed engineers from them, and make some calls.

DH
 
#18 ·
A picture (or drawing) is worth
all those words, above.
And more.
 
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